Omega Speedmaster: first watch on the moon
The Omega Speedmaster chronograph is well known as the ‘moon watch’ on account of its multiple outings beyond the Earth’s atmosphere as part of the equipment list of numerous astronauts.…
Reviving defunct marque names and applying them to modern vehicles is quite popular in the automotive world (for example, the now Chinese-owned MG and the French-owned Brough-Superior). But it’s nowhere near as popular a wheeze as it is in the watch business, where it often makes a lot more sense to buy a bygone but recognised name than to set up a brand from scratch and go through the rigmarole of building a ‘story’ around it.
The benefit of reviving a dial name is that the old models can be closely replicated without any of the problems of modern safety and emissions legislation that might prevent a car or motorcycle manufacturer from doing something similar. That means the designs that made the ‘heritage’ brand great in the first place can be brought back as close replicas of the originals, only with the vastly improved fit, finish and dependability that goes with modern manufacturing processes.
It’s such a win-win that it makes me wonder if there’s any point in accepting the negative aspects of buying a true vintage watch, such as the potential for the difficulty of finding parts and the reduced reliability compared with new. Add the fact that they can be had for a fraction of the price of their vintage equivalent and the argument for buying new becomes even more valid. Which brings us to the new Chronoking ‘Paul Newman’ Orange from Nivada Grenchen.
In case you’ve never heard of it, Nivada Grenchen was founded in 1926 by Swiss watchmaking entrepreneur Jacob Schneider who passed it on to his son, Max, 50 years later.
Known for making quality tool watches in large numbers, the firm’s products were distributed in the US (often under the name Croton) with its models for divers, drivers and pilots being popular in the ’60s and early ’70s.
Like many a traditional watchmaker, however, Nivada Grenchen went bust in 1976 after the ‘quartz crisis’ killed sales of clockwork. The name remained dormant for 42 years until being acquired by entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet who got it going again with a couple of Chronomaster models – and now the collection runs to more than 50 designs.
‘Paul Newman’ alludes to chronograph sub-dials that look similar to those on the type of Rolex Daytona famously worn by the star. Combined with orange detailing and the ’60s-size 38mm case, they give the watch a superb retro look – while the use of a Seiko Meca-Quartz movement (quartz timekeeping combined with mechanical chronograph actuation) both keeps the price down and assures reliability. But be quick: only a limited number will be made.
Nivada Grenchen Chronoking ‘Paul Newman’ Orange, £370. nivadagrenchenofficial.com
Announced during this year’s British Grand Prix, this new chronograph designed by British maker Bremont in conjunction with engineering partner Williams Racing will be limited to 244 examples – a reference to the number of times one or both Williams F1 drivers have climbed the podium since Jacques Laffite took second place for the team at the German Grand Prix in 1975. The 43mm chronograph is made from DLC-treated steel with a transparent back that reveals the Williams Racing logo and (another) wheel-rim inspired winding rotor.
Bremont WR-45, £5795. bremont.com
The six-year partnership between Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini has resulted in a series of watches that are every bit as loud and proud as the Italian maker’s cars. The latest is this 45mm effort which pays tribute to the off-road Hurácan Sterrato. Although 1499 of the cars are being made, there will be a mere 28 examples of the watch, with each one featuring a 233-part movement with twin spring barrels and a winding rotor based on the Sterrato’s wheel design. An acquired taste it is…
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Hurácan Sterrato, £59,500. rogerdubuis.com
Precision is written by renowned luxury goods specialist Simon de Burton
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