Steve McQueen’s second-favourite watch is reimagined for drivers

Steve McQueen, Hollywood’s so-called ‘King of Cool’, will forever hold a place in the horological history books as the man who gave fame to the Heuer Monaco chronograph. As anyone who has managed to stay awake through McQueen’s 1971 film Le Mans might know, the actor chose to wear a Monaco in the role of racing driver Michael Delaney – a fact the modern-day TAG Heuer milks unrelentingly.

As well as receiving regular reminders of McQueen’s association with the Monaco from the brand itself, examples from the batch of six supplied to prop master Don Nunley for use in the film turn up at auction with surprising regularity. In December one of the McQueen-worn watches that was snapped up by mechanic Bevan Weston after the film wrapped sold at Sotheby’s New York for £1.1m.

Day to day, the star was known for wearing a Rolex Submariner Ref 5512, which can be seen on his wrist in The Towering Inferno and The Hunter. In 1977 McQueen gave the ‘Sub’ to friend Jimmy Brucker, out of whose ownership it was sold at auction for £140,000 in 2009. Aside from the Submariner, McQueen is also associated with the Rolex Explorer II after an Italian watch magazine incorrectly stated that he had been seen wearing one.

What no one disputes is that McQueen’s favourite watch after the Submariner wasn’t a Rolex but a robust tool watch by German maker Hanhart. Frequently seen on his wrist in still photographs the chronograph was a relatively rare 417 ES. ‘ES’ referred to the fact that its case was made from stainless steel – Edelstahl. Only around 500 examples of the 417 were made this way, while thousands of others had brass cases coated in chrome plate. To mark its association with the actor, Hanhart relaunched the model in 2020.

Now, the Black Forest maker has introduced this 39mm 415 ES which eschews the distinctive, fluted bezel of the original pilot’s watch for a driver-style design. Red and yellow dial detailing and buff-coloured hands make for a vintage look and, behind the solid case back, there’s an antimagnetic, manually wound movement with Incabloc shock protection – making the watch more than capable of handling those tough rally stages.

And if you find yourself moved to learn more about the history of the maker, horological author Gisbert L Brunner has written a book all about it. Hanhart and the German Watch Industry costs £60 and is available online.

Hanhart 415 ES 39mm, £1780. hanhart.com

As TAG Heuer takes the reins as F1’s timing partner, it’s ramping up its automotive game with a slew of new driver’s watches. Among the best is this Carrera, developed with Porsche, which marks the 911’s first attempt at the Monte Carlo Rally in 1965. The watch dial is inspired by the Heuer dashboard timers fitted to the competing 911, which carried No147. This 911 achieved an impressive second in class and fifth overall. Each watch (911 steel; 11 gold) is supplied in a box containing an additional strap and a scale model of plucky No147.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint X Porsche Rally, from £10,690. tagheuer.com

British brand Aera, founded in 2022, has partnered with Cotswolds-based Porsche restomod specialist Rennsport to create this 25-piece limited edition chronograph based on its re-imagined 911s. The 42mm case is made from 904L steel fitted with a screw-down case back, screw-down crown and domed sapphire crystal that give the watch 100m water resistance. Inside, a good quality Sellita automatic movement sits behind a black dial with 3D-printed chronograph counters in the form of a Fuchs road wheel.

Aera X Rennsport C-1 Chronograph, £2350. aera.co