Revolutionary Patek Philippe watch silences sceptics

In seven years of the Precision page, never before have we highlighted a watch that isn’t linked to cars or driving – so bringing news of this latest launch from Patek Philippe is groundbreaking. But the first new watch range to be launched in 25 years by the company that many regard as being the best in the business is worth a mention. So here is the Cubitus.

As followers of the watch market will know, the Cubitus first saw light of day back in October when it was revealed – several days before the official launch – through Fortune magazine in a prematurely published advert.

The case shape seemed so unlike any Patek that had gone before that this bolting-horse scenario caused a flurry of comment among the quick-to-criticise watch community, creating a frenzy comparable to that caused by Jaguar’s Type 00 electric concept car.

The furore has since calmed and, more importantly, all three watches in the Cubitus range have been looked at, tried on, assessed and evaluated by press and punters alike; most have concluded that it isn’t so bad after all.

Anyone familiar with the Nautilus sports watch will notice the obvious similarities in the dial and bracelet. They will also know that the extreme popularity of the steel, three-hand Nautilus (Reference 5711) led to the model being removed from the catalogue four years ago. One of the reasons for that was brand president Thierry Stern didn’t want the success of the 5711 to overshadow other watches in the line-up – and another was that the design and development of the Cubitus was well underway.

So now if you want a slim, steel, three-hand Patek Philippe sports watch you must ask for a Cubitus Reference 5821/1A. The other two models are the steel and rose gold 5821/1AR (also a three-hander) and the range-topping platinum 5822P, inset, left, a model with perpetual calendar and large date display that’s powered by an all-new movement featuring no fewer than six mechanical patents. Of the three it is the 5821/1AR that most appeals, not least because it’s going to look ‘just right’ in a few years when the metals have mellowed.

Regardless of model, the slim Cubitus case and bracelet makes each watch a delight to wear, and people appear to warm to its decidedly different appearance surprisingly quickly. Whether it will become as sought-after as the Nautilus remains to be seen. But since the waiting list to own one seems to be growing, the possibility is already there.

Patek Philippe Cubitus, from £35,330. patek.com

Marloe’s Coniston range, a nod to the land and water speed record breakers Sir Malcolm Campbell and son Donald, has a new addition – Trackday, which takes its name from the exploits of Malcolm when he won the Boulogne GPs in 1927 and 1928. The colour scheme is “inspired by an iconic racing livery” (no prizes for guessing which one) with the blue and orange dial carried through to an optional strap in striped nylon. Others include plain leather or perforated rally styles – or, for an extra £30, there’s a metal bracelet.

Marloe Coniston Trackday, £399. marloewatchcompany.com

The peculiar title of this watch is Presage 60s Elegant Yet Rugged Biker Style. Whether or not that’s an accurate description we’ll leave you to judge, but the ‘biker’ element comes from the fact that the dial cut-outs are intended to resemble a motorcycle’s air-cooled engine. We’re not so sure of that, but the vintage aesthetic has been well executed (especially the sword hands and unfussy bezel) while the use of Seiko’s reliable 4R72 mechanical movement makes this a decent buy at the price.

Seiko Presage 60s Elegant Yet Rugged Biker Style, £600. seikoboutique.co.uk